The town of Saint-Emilion is situated on the right bank of the river Dordogne, some 40 kilometres east of Bordeaux in South West France. In the first centuries AD the area was covered by the Combes forest which was cleared by the Gallo-Romans and planted with vines. In the 4th century the Roman Consul and Poet , Ausonius, built a villa surrounded by vines and the reputation of it's wines spread round the Roman Empire. In the 7th Century a Hermit from Vannes in Brittany moved to the area and set up a Hermitage. The locals took the holy man and renamed the village Saint-Emilion in his memory. We don't know much about the state of the vineyards until the end of the 12th century when Henry Plantagenet of England married Eleanor of Acquitane and as part of her dowry the Bordeaux region became part of the British Crown. On the 8th of July 1199, Eleanor's and Henry's son, John Lakland acknowledged the 'Liberties and free customs' of Saint-Emilion as a town of wine, with the 'Falaise Charter'. As a result, the commune of St-Emilion was given the right to elect its own Council. This was the birth of the Jurade. Amongst other functions the Jurade was given the responsibility to regulate the wines produced within the Jurisdiction. In 1289, Edward 1 set the boundaries of the town which remain the basis of the Appellation till today. In 1453, at Castillon the French finally defeated the English, bringing to an end the100 year war and British rule in Acquitaine.
Over the years, due to invasions, diseases, the French revolution, absentee owners and economic circumstances St-Emilion's importance in the wine world fluctuated and suffered greatly . Most notably the region was totally omitted from the 1855 classification of the great wines of Bordeaux, mainly for social reasons. The devastation of Phylloxera at the turn of the century increased the decline in the state of the vineyards and it was not until the 1920s that investment and replanting returned to St-Emilion. The potential and reputation of the terroir saw many important families moving or returning to the area culminating with the setting up of the Cave Co Operative in 1930 and the Appellation Controllee system in 1936. It included all the 9 communes that made up the old Jurisdiction of St.Emilion.
The Jurade
One cannot talk about St-Emilion and not mention the famous Jurade of Saint-Emilion. As mentioned earlier this was originally set up in 1199 and today is the oldest wine fraternity in the world. It was revitalised In 1948 by a group of dedicated locals . Amongst these there was Monsieur Dubois Challon (Ch.Ausone), Daniel Querre (Ch.Monbousquet), Jean Capdemourlin (Ch.Balestard la Tonnelle) and Friar Berger. Besides looking after the ceremonial and promotion side of all the wines from the jurisdiction the Jurade is responsible for proclaiming the 'Judgement of the new wine' in June and 'The Harvest' in September. All through the year, the Jurade holds many good will visits and tastings all over the world and many important dignataries from the worlds of Wine, Politics, Sport, Arts etc. have been intronised into the fraternity. Representative chancellories were set up in the UK, Belgium and the USA. A number of Maltese personalities have been intronised, and these include His Excellency Dr Ugo Mifsud Bonnici, Mr Anthony Tabone, Mr Kenneth Zammit Tabona and Maestro Brian Schembri.
His Excellency Dr. Mifsud Bonnici being intronised by Mr. Capdemourlin (Premier Jurat) Malta May 2001
Soils and Grape varieties.
The Vineyards of Saint-Emilion represent approximately 6% of the total AOC vineyards of Bordeaux. St-Emilion basically has 4 different soil types.In the centre of the jurisdiction there is a Limestone/Chalk Plateau with varying depths of soil. The wines here are hugely concentrated and full bodied which in general need time to show their best. The slopes, which surrounds the plateau have a mix of clay and sand mixed with chalk in the southern slopes and sandstone to the north. Wines from the slopes vary enourmously ranging from very generous to the south and tighter to the north. The alluvial plains leading to the Dordogne river, produce light, opulent and delicate wines which show off their best quite young. In the north west of the Jurisdiction, the soils are sand and clay and especially towards the Pomerol border we find an area known as the graves. Here the sand and clay are mixed with a high proportion of silicate gravel. These wines have a velvety/silky texture and are rather opulent. They start showing well early but can age for a long time. Cheval Blanc and Figeac are both found here.
This is a red wine region and the grapes allowed are Merlot, Cabernet Franc (Bouschet), Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec(Pressac). Because of the high clay content and the slightly wetter/cooler soils the predominant grape is Merlot. This is followed by Cabernet Franc and the average vineyard would represent 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and a little Cabernet Sauvignon. Like most Bordeaux wines, Saint-Emilion is a blended wine and altough a lot of imortance is rightly placed on the Merlot, the Cabernet Franc also has a vital rle to play. It is interesting to note that both Premier Grand Cru Classe (A) chateau, have a high percentage of Cabernet Franc. Cheval Blanc with 66% and Ausone with 50%. At the same time there are many great wines with a high Merlot content eg. Ch Magdelaine with 90% Merlot and Beau Sejour Becot with 70% Merlot. One cannot talk about mix of grapes in St-Emilion and not mention Thierry Manoncourt's Chateau Figeac. This Premier Grand Cru classe (B) chateau, is strangely for the area, planted with 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc and 33% Merlot. Very Medocian, in fact in great years Figeac can easily equal the great growths of the Medoc.
AOC
St-Emilion covers approximately 5400 hectares of vineyards and these are split between 1000 or so owners. Compared to other wine districts the chateau of St-Emilion are rather small with some as little as 1.5 hectares with the largest being around 40 hectares. The area has two Appellation Controlees, AOC Saint-Emilion and the tighter AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru. This latter one is classified. Since 1948 all wines applying for either appellation must obtain approval from a commission of expert tasters. Further more for Grand Cru level an approval for ageing suitability must also be obtained.
Classification
As mentioned above St-Emilion had to wait until 1955 to be classified, and unlike the 1855 classification of the Medoc and Graves it is reviewed every ten years or thereabouts. It was last reviewed in 1996 and as it stands today there are 2 Chateau classed as Premier Grand cru Classe (a), 11 are Premier Grand cru Classe (B). 55 are classed as Grand Cru Classe. Watch out for 2006!!!
What do they taste like
Because of the diversity of soils , micro climates and mix of grapes(see above) it is very difficult to pinpoint a universal taste that St-Emilion should taste like. However it would be fair to say that most wines are very fruity and plummy, rather complex and perfumed with and underlying hint of sweetness. Especially in good years they can be concentrated but supple at the same time. One of the reasons why St-Emilion wines are so popular is because they start showing there best rather early, about 5 years, and this unfortunately means that most St-Emilions are drunk too young.. Those of us who have tasted 20 or 30 year old St-Emilions, especially, Premier Grand Cru Classe will verify that although most wines mature early they have the potential to keep improving for a long time.
SAINT-EMILION SATELLITES
Four areas to the north of St-Emilion are allowed to use the name of St-Emilion after their main name. These are Montagne St-Emilion, Lussac St-Emilion, St.Georges St-Emilion and Puisseguin St-Emilion. These are commonly known as the St-Emilion satellites and constitute four totally independent and seperate Appellations. The soils and terroirs here are very similar to St-Emilion but generally, the wines lack the finesse and complexity that wines from their more famous neighbour have. Most wines represent excellent value for money and are drinkable relatively quite young although some are capable of ageing. (see below)
None of the satellites are classified and therefore there is no hierarchy system or equivalent, but standards are very high across the board. In fact some chateau could easily equal a St-Emilion Grand Cru. Amongst these are Chateau Soleil from Puisegguin, Chateau Roudier from Montagne, Chateau Claymore from Lussac and Chateau St.Georges from St.George which are all capable of ageing, and in great years like 1995, 1998 and 2000 can achieve an incredible degrees of ripeness and concentration.
Recent vintages
Whilst the promising 2001 is silently maturing, the great vintage of 2000 will soon be ready for bottling and most properties are preparing to start around May. Of course the more reputable ones, like Figeac and Cheval Blanc will extend this to later on in the year and maybe even to early next year. Recent tastings in France, London and the USA have confirmed the greatness of this year with French commentators declaring 2000 as the year with 'Perfect Balance'. and predictions that it will go down in history as one of Saint-Emilion's most prestigious years. Probably you have to go back to 1982 to find as good a year. The wines are extremely generous and concentrated, with good acidity and ripeness which will make them great wines to keep. Shame, so many will be drunk too young!!!!
An interesting fact on 2000 is that this was a year that if it was not for the advancement in viticulture, we would not have achieved this success. Although the year started with very good and warm weather, July was cold and wet which slowed down the ripening process as well as giving rise to Mildew (fungal disease). Spraying was necessary but more importantly a lot of work was done in the vineyards. Leaf removing, and thinning helped with a hot August and September ripened grapes to perfection.
The wines of 1999 are now very much on the market and they are showing well at present. Which is just as well, as the bigger and better year of 1998 is closing up. If you have to drink this vintage open and aireate early. 1997 has proved to be an unexciting year, although some properties turned out good wines for early drinking. 1996 and 1995 are beginning to open up and especially the 96 is quite generous and spicy. But drink 99 or 97 before these if you can.
Late 80's and 1990 are wonderful and especially the 1989 is fantastic with big flavours and length but if you want to experience the greatness of Saint-Emilion you should taste the 1982.....if you can find!
Available in Malta.
The popularity of St-Emilion wines is reflected by the amount of wines available on the market and most importers have a good selection.
There are many fantastic other wines which as far as I know are not available here. Watch out for these in the future or when your're abroad.
Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere
Chateau Tauzinat l'Hermitage
Chateau Guillemen La Gaffaliere
Chateau de Pressac
Chateau Fonplegade
Chateau Berliquet
** La Mondotte
** Chateau Tertre Rotebeouf
ASPECTS OF SAINT EMILION LIFE
Lunch at Puy Rasac