(Sunday Times February 2002)
I was recently invited to lunch at a newish eating place claiming to be a Bistro, Trattoria, Wine Bar and Restaurant all at once.
It was quite busy with people trying it out and I suppose that on the whole it is worth trying. The welcome was nice, the food was OK, the service was good. Who ever runs the place has obviously had many lunches and dinners at Pippos, Rubino and Malata as the hand written menus, the ' Mezze' and the grilled meats clearly indicate. Has evidently read the right books (Roden, David) and quite possibly has been to France, Italy and maybe Greece. However, the place lacks the all important feel and character which is extremely important, especially in these sort of places.
And by feel and character, I don't mean a blackboard on 'rustic stone', or waiters wishing you 'Bon Apetite'.....................but those little things that make all the difference. You know. The genuine smile. The warm welcome. The creativity of a talented chef. The Loyalty of a traditional cook. The Armagnac in a good Bisque. The Saffron in a 'Paella'. The texture in a 'Tapenade'. The quality of the bread. The scheduling of Lampuki Pie and other seasonal produce. Good Olive oil. The balance of a wine list (price and choice). Serving Port and Sherry in the correct glass etc. etc. etc.
But, hold on just a minute, before some of you decide to turn your previously 'bad' eating place into a 'good' Trattoria. Just like wearing a black robe does not turn me into Dr Emmy Bezzina, you cannot claim Harry's place simply by laying checked table cloths and reciting the menu. The same as putting some famous painter on the wall or investing in Riedel glasses does not automatically mean 'Michelin, watch out, here we come'. It is all, about knowing, feeling and understanding WHY all of the above is important.
That means that all of us that are involved in the catering and hospitality industry must learn to appreciate what it is that distinguishes quality from inferiority, value for money and a rip off, genuine from fake. It means that not all French people can cook a 'Pate' and not all Italian people are experts at Pasta. It means that not all Italian wine is good and not all Maltese wine is bad. It means that having 'Tignanello' on your wine list does not qualify your establishment to a wine bar or wine friendly restaurant.
It also means that when we are at a Rubino type of restaurant napkin folding, smart waiters and fancy sauces are not cause for comment, whilst at a Mange Tout type of place, excellent service and perfectly balanced sauces are the standards by which Victor will be judged. It means that our catering and hospitality teachers and schools should be preparing five star students, irrespective whether they will end up expressing their talents cooking ' Fenek Moqli' or 'Lapin a la Maltaise' or looking after guests from London, Paris. Tripoli or Valletta.
Whether we are in our home, someone else's home or in a catering establishment, good food and wine is an essential part of good living. And by good food I don't mean Foie Gras or Truffles. And by good wine I don't mean Cheval Blanc and Petrus. Good food could mean a homely and cheaply produced 'Brodu tac-Canga' made with the cheapest cut of beef and seasonal vegetables and bad food could mean a 'Brodu tac-Canga' made with the most expensive fillet of Scottish beef and imported frozen vegetables.
Good food and wine can mean a 'Pastizz' and a glass of wine (wine & pastizzi go very well together). It might mean a glass of young, fruity and spicy syrah from Malta or a perfectly balanced and harmonious, elegant and engaging mature Saint-Emilion. It can be a meal in a Trattoria type place or an extravaganza of fine wine and fine cuisine in a posh restaurant. For those of you that like entertaining at home (highly recommended), it could mean a meal from your family repertoire rather than some strange concoction retrieved from a book by some famous chef, that you have never cooked before. All have there own merits and can all be very enjoyable as long as they are given and received with feel, from the heart.
|
|
