Wine Talk

(By Michael Tabone)

Saint-Emilion Classification 2006

The much awaited re classification of the wines of Saint-Emilion was announced on the 7^th of September 2006.  Wine lovers everywhere were anxiously waiting for the announcement as unlike any other system of grading wines in France, this classification is reviewed and upgraded every ten years or so, and hence , in theory, it keeps the classed properties in check.  It ensures that recognised chateaux maintain standards on the pain of declassification and it encourages others to improve hoping for better distinction. 

The Classification committee is appointed by the INAO (The national institute that runs the Appellation of Origin) following proposals made by the people of Saint-Emilion and is made up of  9 members.  This year they came from various wine sectors , including  oenological, soil science, brokerage, legal and economic representatives taking in consideration all aspects in the life of a chateau. 

Any property wanting to maintain or be incorporated in the system must submit an application which include commercial documents, an inventory of the estate, history of marketing, reputation of wine, press write ups , samples of the previous 10 vintages are just some of the requirements in the application file.  With this,  a number of criteria must be satisfied and undertaken .  Age of vines, chateau bottling, promise not to modify the estate,  and so on.

The first classification took place in 1955 exactly 100 years after the static, but well established 1855 classification of the Medoc and Sauternes. It distinguished 12 Premiers Grands Crus Classes and 63 Grands Crus Classes.  There have been reviews in 1969, 1986 and 1996.  This last one incorporated 55 Grands Crus Classes, 11 Premiers Grands Crus Classes (B) and 2 Premiers Grands Crus Classes (A).

Changes in 2006          

A number of important changes took place this year and for the next 10 years the Classification of Saint-Emilion will stand with 15 Premiers Grands Crus Classes (2 A and 13 B) and 46 Grands Crus Classes.

Representing the most important change is the anticipated promotion to Premiers (B) of Ch Troplong Mondot and Ch Pavie-Macquin.  Both have been producing fantastic wines for a number of years.  In the case of Troplong this goes back 30 or so years.

Christine Valette, the owner, has spent a lifetime and all her energy in taking the quality here to the very highest levels which attracted a very high world wide reputation, demand and price for the wine.  All of  which will no doubt increase even further with this distinction.  Well deserved.   The elevation of Pavie –Macquin was a sure thing simply based on the exceptional aspect and situation of the vineyard.  Just above Ch Pavie on the famous south facing Pavie slope.

Other important promotions were the re incorporation to Grand Cru Classe of Ch Grand Corbin and  Chateau Grand Corbin Despagne.  These  were part of the original 1955 classification but were  not included in 1996, mainly due to family problems.  Both Philippe Giraud and Francois Despagne have worked hard to achieve this re integration with huge investments in the winery and in marketing. 

The Controversial Mr Gerard Perse has been awarded with Grand Cru Classe for his Ch Monbusquet.  That this wine is good is no big secret.  It was good before Perse bought it in 1993 .  However he did manage to bring it to the very bright limelight achieving an incredible reputation and prices to match.  This announcement is quite ground breaking and no doubt will have repercussions in the next classification in 2016 as with this, Monbusquet becomes the sole classed property in the less highly regarded flat area of St Sulpice where  sandy soils dominate and where usually, early drinking wines are produced.  No doubt this will give a lot of encouragement and hopefulness to  Monbusquet’s neighbours and other less regarded areas  of Saint-Emilion.  Not a bad thing at all.

The excellent Ch Bellefont- Bercier  has also been given Classes status.  This property have achieved enourmous success in the last few years with great wines especially in the 1998 and 2000 vintages.  Ch Fleur Cardinal was also upgraded.  A promotion which many feel was not merited, especially since if anything, improvements have only taken place in the last 2 years.  The other incorporation at Classe level was the promotion of the rather unknown Ch Destieux. I don’t ever recall tasting this wine so I cannot comment.  No doubt I will get the chance during my visit to Saint Emilion next week.

Now for the sad stories.  13 properties were not re classified for various reasons.  I suppose the easiest two to explain is the disappearance of Ch Cure Bon which was integrated with Ch Canon and Chateau de Jacobins which changed its name to Clos de Jacobins.  The 2 properties Ch La Tour du Pin Figeac (Giraud and Mouiex) were refused because of serious family problems which effected the quality and market positioning of the wines.  I would not be surprised if these properties will become for sale soon.

The most contraversial refusals for me were Ch Tertre Daugay and Petit Faurie de Soutard.  Especially in the latter huge investments were made in the cellar and the quality of the wine is surely not in question.  I rather think that it was a question of marketing.  As the owner has 2 other classed properties (Balestard la Tonnelle and Cap de Mourlin) besides being Premier Jurat amongst many other titles and responsibilities, Petit Faurie lacked the attention that a property of this magnitude requires. The demotion of Tertre Daugay was also a big shock to the St Emilionais.  Many believe that this property which is owned by the same family that owns the 1ere,  Ch La Gaffeliere  has been producing wines not to the potential of it’s rather special terroir on the Daugay slopes. 

Ch Bellvue, Ch Cadet Bon, Ch Faurie de Souchard, Ch Gaudet St Julien, Ch Villemaurine and Ch Yon Figeac were the other non re classified chateaux.

Finally, here are some disappointing headline announcements for  hopeful properties.  Once again Ch Figeac was refused elevation to Premier (A) from (B) on grounds of price.  Strangely no one doubts the quality of the wine but the fact that it sells for much less than Ausone and Cheval Blanc penalises the Manoncourt family, owners of Figeac.   The same applies for the excellent Ch Grand Mayne.  Francoise Nony , the owmer , applied to be upgraded to premier (B) but also was refused because of price.  This price factor, which plays an important role in the evaluations, has caused a lot of animosity between the various hopeful properties and the deciding authorities.

 Of course the rather ridiculous attempt by Luc Thunevin to integrate Ch de Valandraud straight  as Premier (A) and the second wine, Virginie de Valandraud as Premier (B) was ignored completely for a number of reasons.  Size of landholding, history of the wine and the fragmented aspect of the vineyards determined the guaranteed outcome.

In Malta most were expecting Ch Carteau Cotes Daugay to be elevated to Classe.  This did not take place as in the last minute the Bertrand Family decided not to apply.  Anne Marie Bertrand explained that some members of the family were concerned that the eventual and nearly mandatory price rise would have effected negatively the long term prospects of the Chateau.  Anne Marie reckons that in 2016, they will have no option but to apply.

Finally Ch Canon La Gaffeliere was refused elevation to Premier (B) as the owner Stephan von Neipperg did not want to split his vineyard into a Premier and a Classe part.  As the vineyard has a distinctive slope and plain aspect the higher classification would have only been offered for the slope part.  Stephan, who incidentally was in Malta at the end of July, clearly indicated that he is not ready to do this.  He argues,  and indeed I agree that the higher Classification is not worth the loss of part of the vineyard with a doubtful wine quality result.  For lovers of Canon La Gaffeliere Premier or Classe does not really have any significance.  This type of deal based on the same situation has already been done in the classification of 1996 when Ch Angelus demoted part of it’s vineyard on the plain to producing Angelus’s second wine , Carillon D’Angelus.

Overview

Being the only regularly revised classification in France, the St Emilion system is in principal a good system.  In theory in punishes and it rewards properties on their performance of the previous 10 years.  However the criterias used are of doubtable relevance.  As Mr Manoncourt told me.  He would not begrudge his refusal if he was refused on quality issues.  But to be penalised for keeping reasonable prices is illogical and damaging.  Some properties are debating taking legal action against the system.

CLASSEMENT DES CRUS DE SAINT-EMILION

2006

PREMIERS GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS

A : Château Ausone                                                           Château Cheval Blanc         

B : Château Angélus                                                                  Château Beauséjour (Duffau-lagarrosse)

Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot                                           Château Belair

Château Canon                                                             Château Figeac

Château La Gaffelière                                                   Château Magdelaine

Château Pavie                                                               Château Pavie-Macquin

Château Troplong-Mondot                                             Château Trottevieille

Clos Fourtet

GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS

Château Balestard la Tonnelle                                        Château Bellefont-Belcier

Château Bergat                                                             Château Berliquet

Château Cadet Piola                                                      Château Canon la Gaffelière

Château Cap de Mourlin                                                Château Chauvin

Château Corbin                                                             Château Corbin Michotte

Château Dassault                                                          Château Destieux

Château Fleur-Cardinale                                                Château Fonplégade

Château Fonroque                                                         Château Franc Mayne

Château Grand Corbin                                                   Château Grand Corbin Despagne

Château Grand Mayne                                                   Château Grand Pontet

Château Haut Corbin                                                     Château Haut Sarpe

Château L’Arrosée                                                       Château La Clotte

Château La Couspaude                                                  Château La Dominique

Château La Serre                                                          Château La Tour Figeac

Château Laniote                                                            Château Larcis Ducasse

Château Larmande                                                        Château Laroque

Château Laroze                                                             Château Le Prieuré

Château Les Grandes Murailles                                      Château Matras

Château Monbousquet                                                   Château Moulin du Cadet

Château Pavie-Decesse                                                 Château Ripeau

Château Saint-Georges-Côte-Pavie                                Château Soutard

Clos de l’Oratoire                                                          Clos des Jacobins

Clos Saint-Martin                                                          Couvent des Jacobins