As we had predicted
a number of years ago the wine bar culture is now truly and squarely with
us. More and more people today are choosing wine bars for their nights and
even lunchtime outings.
There is nothing
new in friends drinking wine in bars. Indeed, up to not so long ago
drinking wine in village bars was a very popular pastime. ‘Kurun’, ‘Wenzu’
and ‘Pinta Nbid’ were actually a good illustration of village life in Malta
and Gozo of yesteryear. Amongst the well educated and higher classes of our
society wine was seen as a rural drink. Except for the occasional Family
gathering or Christmas lunch, consumption of wine was minimal with
preference given to beer, whisky and other spirits. There could be various
reasons for this. British influence and the quality of Maltese wines at the
time are just two.
The movement of
village people to towns and the expansion and development of some villages
into towns of the 50s, 60s. 70s and 80s changed village life forever and
with it , drinking habits changed too. One only has to go to a village
feast to see the amount of beer that is consumed.! Happily the 1980s
brought about the popularity of wine amongst the same social classes that a
few years earlier had brought about it’s decline. Encouraged by the
prosperity of the last 25 years, the investment, improvement and marketing
of the major local wine producers, the promotion of wine as a healthy drink,
the cultural association of wine and most recently with the removal of
levies on imported bottles, wine today is enjoying the popularity that it
so rightly deserves.
The consumption of
wine is equally increasing in a number of countries that we have close
connections to. The UK is up by 15.7% over the last 5 years, The USA up by
28.6% and in Italy consumption is estimated to increase to over 27 million
hectoliters by 2008. In Malta we are now consuming around 13 million
bottles. (estimate). Up by 10% in 3 years.
Although not all
deserve the title, Wine bars are sprouting all over the island. In Valletta
alone there are now over 9 such venues with a couple more opening soon. St
Julians and the Sliema areas are teaming with them. Cottonera now has a few
as does Gozo, with a lot more planned for the coming months. Even in areas
such as B’Kara, Rabat, Lija, Attard and other residential areas, the idea
is catching on. So what is it with wine bars that so many of us are finding
attractive?
It is probably a
combination of factors. Definitely the lively, casual atmosphere is one.
The generally large selection of wines and wine friendly service and
ambience is another. Equally attractive is the fact that in a wine bar you
don’t have to eat but at the same time most places offer simple food,
generally in the form of platters of cheese or cold meats, just in case you
get hungry. A number of people choose wine bars also because it is
relatively cheaper than going to a full fledged restaurant.
All of this is very
encouraging and positive. But……… are our wine bars living up to
expectations.
Although most are
owned or run by enthusiastic people it is very evident that many are having
problems finding wine knowledgeable staff to work and deliver the service
that wine lovers are demanding. To illustrate what I mean let me tell you
about one recent particular night out. It was the night that ‘Etnika’
played in Valletta. Approaching Marsovin’s stand I asked if they had a
bottle of slightly chilled Cheval Franc. As the answer was no, I suggested
that they should put some on ice or in the fridge. The response was ‘Sir,
this is a red wine and it should be served at room temperature’!!! I tried
to explain to the learned girl serving me that the temperature that night in
Valletta was around 24d. But she was having none of it. Eventually I did
persuade her to put our bottle in the fridge. After the concert we headed
for a newly opened wine bar in Vittoriosa and as we were a big table I
ordered 2 bottles of a particular ‘Cote du Rhone’. The waiter came back to
tell me that he only had one, but he could offer me another ‘Cote du Rhone’
from a different part of France!!!!!! Clearly more effective training is
needed.
Another problem
that I see developing is the standardization of wine bars. It seems to me
that many are offering more or less the same thing. The same wines, the
same cheeses, the same Salami’s etc. I am particularly annoyed when it
comes to cheese selections. Although up to recently it was very difficult
to find good, artisanal cheeses, nowadays we have a shop who is offering
incredibly good, regional, well nurtured cheese (Chez Phillipe – Gzira) and
they have such a large selection that one can create very unique cheese
platters. On the industrial cheese front there have also been
improvements. Some Supermarkets are now offering good (not excellent) goat
and soft cheeses that could improve any cheese platter on a budget.
One final word
about Cheese. Some cheeses are not very wine friendly. Some blue for
example are too strong for most dry wines. Whilst most young goat cheeses
are better off with white wine. Can I suggest that cheeses offered are
chosen with a bit of attention and that maybe a choice of ‘to have with
white’ or ‘to have with red’ is offered. Maybe even a sweet wine by the
glass to have with blue.
When it comes to
wine there is also room for improvement. Today we have a huge number of
wine importers and an increasing number of Maltese small producers.
Understanding that many outlets have long standing relationships with
particular producers and importers, one can still be unique and offer new or
not so popular wines. For example, as wine of the week/day or even better
as wines by the glass. That way customers get the chance to try something
new whilst the establishment can establish an own identity. Whilst on the
subject of wine by the glass. An excellent wine to have with small eats is
without a doubt Fino or Manzanilla Sherry. Just a suggestion!
The wine bar
culture is definitely here to stay. There is no doubt that we will see
many more opening and many more people will start frequenting them. I
encourage everyone concerned, to support and encourage what by all means is
a very positive development in our society
Happy wine drinking
