(In a 3 part series Michael Tabone writes about 3 of the most important wine people in the world who he recently met.  In this first part he tells us about Johnny Hugel from Alsace.  In the next two he recounts his meetings with Miguel A Torres from Spain and Thierry Manoncourt from Bordeaux) 

I can think of no great wine that is not grown in beautiful surroundings where good food is prepared and where generous and life loving people live and work.   Occasionally,  from  the same terroir that gives birth to  great wine and food comes a man, or a woman that  encompasses all that is great about a region.  With a history going back 13 generations, an incredible understanding of human life, a renowned palate for good wine and a huge amount of energy one man stands alone amongst Alsace’s favourite sons.  He is without a doubt…  Johnny Hugel. 

Now in his 81^st year, Johnny Hugel has been the foremost Ambassador for Alsace’s great wines for the past 30 or so  years.  As his grand father, Frederick Emile did in the beginning of the 20^th century and  his father Jean in the 1960’s and 70’s Johnny has endlessly worked for the renaissance of Alsace’s wines both in improving quality and in communicating those qualities to the wine drinking world.   

As a young man he studied Agronomy and he admits that if he did not join the family business he would have probably ended up growing peaches, which is one of his favourite fruits.  Later on he studied oenolgy and in the 1960s he became the chief wine maker with his brothers Georges and Andre looking after the vineyards and the commercial aspect of Hugel et fils.  As chief winemaker he was responsible for vinifying a few of the greatest wines ever made,  amongst which are  the now legendary  Riesling Selection de Grains Noble 1976,  which I have tasted once and the 1983 and 1989 .which I have drunk on a number of occasions. Upon the death of his father in 1980, ‘Johnny’ became the undisputed Ambassador for Alsace’s wines travelling the world communicating the qualities of the region’s wines.  Although still very much active ‘Johnny’ theoretically retired in 1997 and the company is now run by his nephews Jean-Philippe, Marc and Etienne.  For his retirement the family honoured him with a range of wines labelled ‘Homage a Jean Hugel’ which were produced in the excellent vintages of 1997 and 1998.

As would be expected from a man with such experience Johnny has much to say.  His talk is flowing with anecdotes and stories about most things in life.  I once said that if a Marsian lands on earth and asks me how best to learn about life on earth I would suggest he studies wine.  I might also include ‘ you must meet Johnny Hugel’.   His energy and enthusiasm is remarkable with strong, sometimes controversial opinions on most things in life.    ‘At my age I can freely say what I feel’ he jokes.   Johnny is very critical of wine journalists and that part of the wine media that try to blind people with long winded, sometimes imaginary tasting notes of raspberries, blackberries and every fruit that the different seasons provide.  When asked to comment, he said “ Whenever my wife gives me a fruit bowl, I take a deep sniff, but I  never smell Burgundy or Bordeaux.”!.   He believes that wine lovers are the most important people in the wine business as they are the ones that pull the corks. “ Put your nose in the glass and what you smell, is your problem…..if you don’t like what you smell…..then it is our problem.”

He is very much against the current trend for making wines that are overpowered with oak or too alcoholic.  He openly criticises much of the wines coming from the new world, saying that they can make oaked wine, alcoholic wine but not great wine.  

The Wines of Alsace

Alsace have a varied and very interesting history.  With the Rhine River providing excellent passage for shipment, between the 12^th and 16^th century the wines of Alsace  became very  popular in the northern countries of Russia, Sweden and the Baltics. For example records still exist which show that in 1481 600,000 hl of wine was exported.  The 30 year war (1618-1648) brutally brought this prosperous period to an end and gave rise to a long period of famine, disease and human slaughter.  For example the population of Riquewhir went from 2245 in 1610 down to 74 by 1636.  Bergheim from 2600 in 1610 to 20 by 1650.   

Although the population did recover slowly by means of immigration and some successes in other types of agriculture, viticulture continued to decline for nearly 300 years.  Leaving the ravages of oidium. Philloxera and the first world war behind,  in 1918 a group of exemplary and hard working wine growers with a vision of quality lead the way for the huge scale planting of 6 noble varieties on which to base Alsace’s wine renaissance.  These were Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Muscat.  There  were also the lesser Chasselas and Sylvaner. This enthusiasm for quality was dampened again with the second world war but re found with much vigour in 1945.  Today Alsace’s white wines are probably the best whites in the world.

Geography/Climate

I asked Johnny why Alsace can produce such quality wines in such a northern situation.  Describing the geographical situation as being right in the middle of rich people hiding their money in Swiss or Luxemburg  banks Johnny continued  ….Alsace is situated in north eastern France, on the border with Germany and Switzerland.  It has two departments.  The northern part is the Bas-Rhin with Strasbourg as it’s capital and the Haut-Rhin in the south with Colmar as it’s most important city.  

Some 25 million years ago, huge geological activities which included the folding of the earth’s crust formed the Vosges mountains to the west and the black forest to the east which eventually created a massive valley rift and ultimately due to floods, erosion etc, the Rhine river.

These geological upheavals exposed nearly all the soil types that were formed in different periods, with the result that today the area is endowed with an enormous diversity of soil types.  Granite, flint, chalk, sand, loam, alluvial etc are all found here.

But possibly the biggest influence, was the forming of the Vosges mountains which give the region a unique favorable climate.   Although Alsace is on the same latitude as Paris (47-49N) far away from sea with a continental climate, the region is the driest region in France with Colmar being the second driest city after Perpignan in Roussillon. (Average rainfall 500mm). This is the result of the mountains sheltering the region from the cold western winds coming in from the Atlantic which after crossing the plains of western France gathers a lot of humidity.  The Vosges range is the first high ground that these clouds encounter which results in the  precipitation of rain on the western slopes, leaving the eastern slopes and the region dry, especially in the autumn.

Most of the vineyards lie in a narrow strip 140 kilometers on the slopes and the foot of these mountains.  The best, are sited on the lower slopes facing east or south east, benefiting from the morning sun, and are quite steep. Generally these are to be found in the Department of the Haut Rhin where the mountains are higher.  The plains leading to the Rhine are also planted but these are generally used for lesser wines and Cremant.   The best vineyards are sited on steep slopes. 

All the above conditions give the Alsacian wine growers an excellent opportunity to combine soil types with the appropriate vine varieties.  Recently a comprehensive study of soil types was made with the result that in the local council offices of most wine villages there are maps of their respective region with soil analysis and what variety , clones and rootstocks  should be planted where.  

Hugel et Fils

The Hugel family has been growing wines in Alsace since 1639 and as a recently published book of letters found in the family archives proof, they have been championing the well being of Alsacian wines, growers and region for hundreds of years.  They are based in the beautiful village of Riquewhir and today they own about 27 hectares of excellently sited vineyards around the village.  Amongst the many wine that they produce is ‘Gentil’ the hugely popular blend based on Pinot Blanc which is excellent value for money. Their Tradition and Jubilee ranges have long been regarded as some of the best Alsatian wines.  They were also pioneers in re vitalising the late harvested ‘Vendage Tardive’ and nobly rotten ‘Selection de Grains Noble’ wines.  Today, some of Alsace’s most revered wines.  Johnny Hugel was responsible for drawing up the legal requirements for administering these wines.  Hugel’s wines as indeed most of Alsace’s wines are very food friendly.  They are excellent with traditional European dishes as well as with Asian Cuisine.

As I said in a small speech I made in ‘Johnny’s’  honour at a recent dinner in ‘Ta Frenc - Gozo, wine lovers of our generation are lucky to live in a time where we can still meet wine people like Johnny Hugel. Johnny has achieved many things in his life which brought him many honours and titles.  To me he is simply one of the best wine communicators I have met and likely to meet.

Drink Hugel wines with joy in celebration of a true wine man.

Hugel wines are imported by Wands Ltd

Johnny Hugel will be appearing on TVM during two wine documentaries to be shown on Friday 29^th July and Friday 5^th August titled ‘Wine Stories’ . These documentaries were produced by Peter Busutil and Michael Tabone and filmed in Bordeaux – France.

Over the years Bordeaux has given birth to many great wine people. Men and women who with their winegrowing skills,  energy, dedication and hard work enriched the wine world that we know today.  Some have grown to become legends in their own life time, not only achieving the respect of wine lovers everywhere but also from their own piers and competitors.

One such man is without a doubt Thierry Manoncourt.  Mr Manoncourt is the owner of  the Premier Grand Cru Classe, Chateau Figeac and past Premier Jurat of the Jurade of Saint-Emilion.  Now in his 84^th year,   Mr Manoncourt is the epitomy of French sophistication, elegance and class.  Calm and softly spoken,  he is a man of untold knowledge and wisdom gained through a life dedicated to the benefit of wine growers and wine drinkers.

I have known Thierry for about 14 years.  I vividly remember the first time I met him at Figeac.  Then,  not very fluent in French, he was one of the first French wine people I could truly understand what he was talking about.  Wheter it was his very well spoken French, his reputation or the Figeac 1982 that we were tasting I would never know, but what is for certain is that I was truly impressed with the approachability and presence of the man.  Since then my French have improved and have been lucky enough to meet Thierry frequently.  Most recently was in June of this year when he very kindly accepted to receive me, a few friends and a Maltese TV crew at his home in Saint-Emilion.

Thierry Manoncourt started his working career as a geological engineer.  In 1945 he was entrusted  with the  reigns of Chateau Figeac, which had been in his family since 1892.  After many years of neglect, absentee owners and general dereliction Thierry put all his energy and enthusiasm as well as his geological expertise into the life and wines of the once famous property.  The estate soon became his life long work and passion and within a few years he managed to put Figeac back in the limelight. 

By the mid 1950s Figeac had regained it’s reputation as one of Bordeaux’s top wines and Thierry became one of the most important people in the region.  Being one of the first people to recognise the importance of collectivity  and unity,  together with a number of Saint-Emilionais, he  pressed the authorities to establish  the classification of Saint-Emilion.  This was enlisted in 1955, with  Figeac being recognised with the distinction of Premier Grand Cru Classe ‘B’.  

The early sixties were   spent communicating the qualities of the estate and Saint Emilion as a whole which culminated with him being elected as Premier Jurat in 1964.  A position he held till 1987.  Under his leadership,  the Jurade travelled extensively and the wines of Saint-Emilion gained enormous success worldwide especially in the UK and Belgium. 

This was also a time of great technological advancements and investments in the wine world and the start of what was later to become the era of great quantum quality leaps.

In a tireless search for improving quality, Mr Manoncourt was one of the first people in Saint-Emilion and indeed in Bordeaux to use 100% new oak barrels for his wines as well as one of the early advocates of the benefits of  Stainless Steel .  Respectful of tradition and typicity, but at the same time embracing modern technology,  way back in 1970 he installed 10 stainless steel vats to compliment, (not replace) the traditional oak vats at Figeac and in 1971 he commissioned the building of an underground cellar for bottle ageing.  All of this was inspirational for the region’s wine growers and many followed his example with investments both in the vineyards and in the winery.

Over the years Mr Manoncourt has played an important part in many associations  and committees which of course include the CIVB, the INAO and other various departmental and national wine authorities.  In the late eighties .he was joined at Figeac by his son in law Eric D’Aramon who today is in charge of the estate’s wines but  although Thierry is now officially retired,  many in Saint-Emilion still look upon him as an inspirational father. 

Chateau Figeac

For fine wine lovers Figeac is like Lourdes to devotees of the Virgin Mary.  I remember taking a group of Maltese wine enthusiasts there once and upon arrival two members of our group knelt down and kissed the earth.  This is the sort of following  Figeac carries.

The origins of the estate goes back to the huge Gallo Roman domain belonging to Figeacus, from which it took it’s name in the 2^nd century AD.  The estate was so huge that over the years and passing of generations a large number of breakaway estates were created.  Most famously these include Chateau Cheval Blanc and all the estates with Figeac appended in their title. (eg. Cros Figeac, Tour du Pin Figeac, Petit Figeac etc.).

The estate is  quite unique and special for many reasons.  Firstly the 39 hectare  property covers nearly half of the gravel area of Saint-Emilion.  This is a small area near the border with Pomerol where the soils have a high content of Gunzian gravel.  It is excellently drained and has 65% of it's vineyard dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Very exceptional  for a Saint-Emilion wine where Merlot normally dominates and where Cabernet Sauvignon usually plays a very minor role.

The Chateau itself  (the building), dates back to the 18^th century and is built in a pure classical style.  The wine making facilities and  barrel and bottle cellars are attached to the property through an impressive tasting room adorned with a couple of Flemish tapestries.  Figeac is one of the most visited wine properties in France with over 5 thousand visitors each year.

The wines

Figeac is not one of those blow you away wines in it’s early stages.  The emphasis has always been on balance, elegance and age ability.  In the better vintages like 1964, 1982, 1985, 1990, 1995, 1998 and 2000.  The wines develop a sensual/silky feel and texture with a nice long complex aromas of spices and rich black fruits and a certain minerality.   Although the term ‘classical’ comes to mind, the wine making philosophy here is not static.  Just as the wines that Mr Manoncourt was making in the 50s were not the same as he was making in the eighties, Eric is making wines with a more modern outlook, but the all important character of Figeac remains the same. Figeac is an estate with continuity.

A second wine called Grange Neuve de Figeac is produced and generally this is excellent value for money.  It develops and matures earlier than it’s bigger brother needing only a few years of ageing. 

Every time I meet Thierry Manoncourt I feel very honoured to be in his presence.  For some reason or other  I feel I learnt something new.  Wheter this is because Figeac is one of my favourite wines I don’t know, but more than likely its because whenever I visit Figeac I see what in my opinion wine is all about.   History, family and continuity which at this level of wine is now sadly rare to find.

Chateau Figeac is available from most wine merchants.

Wine People - Miguel A. Torres

Many wine families pretend to be and behave like royalty but if any one family deserves the title of A Royal Wine Family, surely it is the Torres family of Catalonia – Spain.  Reigning over this family since 1991 is the unassuming, immensely agreeable, charming,   Miguel A. Torres. 

I met Miguel for the first time a few weeks ago during his quick one day visit to give a tasting and presentation of some of Torres’s wines, here in Malta.  We have many friends in common, including the other great wine man I wrote about in my last article, Johnny Hugel,  so it did not take us long to break the ice and start a conversation. 

As apposed to Johnny,  who is such an extravert and centre of attention, Miguel is one of those quite, soft spoken people who uses a few,  but well chosen words.  I asked him what was it like growing up with a surname like Torres in Catalonia.  As  a young boy in  the fifties he admits that he was not totally aware of how important his family was in the wine world nor was he passionate  about wine.  In 1957 he began studying chemistry at Barcelona university but after  his father’s insistence he changed subjects to oenology and viticulture and moved to Dijon, France a year later.  Life in France was very different from the Franco controlled Spain.  Miguel enjoyed all the freedom’s that French democracy was offering in the late fifties but returned to Spain and the family business in 1962 as a fully qualified oenologist.

With the knowledge acquired in France, Miguel persuaded his father to embark on a programme of investments which included the change over to stainless steel fermentation equipment, the adoption of newer technology but more importantly the planting of international varieties  such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot amongst others

This was also a time of growth. Hectare after hectare were purchased and distribution of Torres’s wines spread worldwide.  In 1975, Miguel’s sister Marimar moved to the USA with her new American husband.  I asked Miguel what was the family’s  reaction to this. ‘My father was not very happy’ he tells me.  ‘He wanted  her to stay in Catalonia with the family.  But I think that eventually he approved of her decision.  Indeed, when we eventually bought the estate in Russian River, he became very fond of it.’

During this time Don Miguel (Our Miguel’s father) dispatched  Miguel to search for a place to relocate the Torres’s wine empire to, as he was very worried about the future of Spain and Franco.  Miguel first looked at California, soon followed by Argentina but it was Chile that Miguel fell in love with.  This was 1977.  Having persuaded his father that Chile can produce excellent wine, the Torres family went in knee deep with the acquisition of a 100 hectare estate,   2 year later.    Miguel jokes ‘You see there is an affinity between Dictators and the Torres family.   Franco in Spain and Pinochet in Chile’

The late seventies and eighties were spent writing books, and establishing the new vineyards.  The first one,  ‘Vinas y Vinos’ was published in 1977 and has now been translated into more than 8 languages.  Since then he has published a number of other books which include a ‘Guide to Spanish wineries’ and ‘Wines of Spain – Tasting’

To keep up with the great advancements in viticulture during this time, Miguel took a sabbatical year and once again moved to France to take a specialist course at the University of Montpellier. That was 1982-3.

In 1991, Don Miguel died and total control of the company passed on to our Miguel.  In the last 24 years the company has grown enormously with more vineyard purchases and a huge growth in Torres’s wine sales around the world.  (Incidentally Malta consumes more Torres wines per capita than anywhere else in the world).  For his achievements Miguel Torres has been awarded many titles and honours.   Amongst  which are,  the Order of Bernardo O’Higgins awarded to him by the Chilean Government in 1996.  In 1999 Torres was voted the most important winery in Spain by ‘Wine Spectator’ . and in 2002 Decanter voted Miguel ‘Decanter man of the year’. 

With all these achievements one can be excused for expecting a tough, snooty, big headed type of a man.  But in fact, Miguel is anything but.  He is of course a self assured

man with a Catalan sense of pride but more importantly,  and in my opinion his biggest achievement has been the fact that he remains humble and open to suggestions.  He is a good listener and attributes most of his success to this fact.  Indeed he instigates these values and same principles in all his family and employees.   Miguel’s and Torres’s secret for success.

The Family

The history of the Torres family as winemakers goes back to 1870 when Miguel Torres (the great grand father of today’s Miguel) together with his brother Jaime built a Bodega in Vilafranca near Barcellona.  In 1909 Another Miguel Torres was born (the father of today’s Miguel) who took over the company in 1932.  This Miguel, who later acquired the synonym Don Miguel started  a succession of projects that saw Torres become a major player in the world of wine.  In 1940 he started the rebuilding of the Bodega after it was destroyed in the Spanish Civil war  and Torres’s wines started being bottled instead of sold in bulk.  In 1942 the first wine labeled ‘Coronas’ was sold whilst in 1946 the Torres ‘10’  brandy was launched.  In 1947 the first ‘Vina Sol’ was released but probably the most influential achievement of this period was the introduction of the now hugely popular ‘Sangre de Toro’ in 1954.  Don Miguel’s achievements continued well through the sixties, seventies and eighties only this time he was joined by his son, our Miguel who qualified as an oenologist from the university of Dijon-Burgundy.   1975 saw Marimar Torres moving to the USA with her new husband.  She was put in charge of  the sales  of Torres’s wines in the America’s. 

1979 was a pivotal year for the Torres family with two major events that were to influence the future of the company and to a certain extent the future of Spanish and Chilean wines.  The first was the acquisition of  100 hectares of vineyards in Chile which also brought with it the first modern wine equipment to the country.  The other was the winning of the Gault-Millau competition with Gran Coronas Black Label (now called ‘Mas La Plana’ for the finest Cabernet Sauvignon based wines of 1970 vintage. The competition was held in France by French tasters and included amongst other Ch Latour and Ch Haut-Brion.  This was the day that Torres exploded on the premium wine scene.

The marriage of Marimar did not last long and after she decided to stay in the USA the family persuaded her that she should look for a vineyard in California.  3 years later, in 1982 Marimar Torres bought a 22.5 hectare in Russian River.  In  1984, something which was later to prove hugely important , work was started on recuperating ancient Catalan grape varieties.  More land was purchased in Chile in 1985, 1990 and 2003 and 2002 in California.  2003 also saw Torres expanding into other areas of Spain besides Catalonia.  160 hectares were bought in Jumilla whilst in 2004 vineyards in Toro and Ribera del Duero were acquired.  2004 also saw the passing away of Dona Margarita Torres.  Miguel’s mother,  who was very influential in first supporting her husband, Don Miguel and since 1991 after his death, as the Matriarch of the company.  

The Wines

Today Torres owns or has under long term leases over 3000 hectares of vines.  The biggest chunk of that is in Catalonia but there are also holdings in Ribera del Duero, Jumilla, Priorato and Toro. In Chile they have some of the best sited vineyards in the central valley region whilst in California they own two estates ‘Don Miguel’ and ‘Dona Margerita’.   As expected a large number of wines of different qualities, styles and ranges are produced. From the low priced Nerola and the hugely popular Sangre de Toro to the rare Mas La Plana and Conde de Superunda they all have something in common.  Torres’s guarantee of quality and value for money.  Here are some of my favourites.

Mas La Plana (Black Label).  Although not very Spanish in style and feel this Cabernet Sauvignon based wine has a certain breed and class in the image of the best Bordeaux wines.  In the better vintages it has a very good ageing potential.  This is one of my favourite Torres’s wines and was lucky enough to taste the 1970, now one of the most sought after wines in the world.  More recent success were the 1998, 1995, 1990, and 1989.  Grans Muralles  does not have the same huge ageing potential but it does have a Spanish feel and spirit.  It is based on Spanish varieties such as Garnacha, Carinena and Monastrell.  Quite spicy, rich and Mediterranean like.  At a  lesser level but in the same style is Mas Rabell.  Also from Carinena and Garnacha this is easy to drink and excellent value for money.      Look out for the newly launched Celeste from the tiny 7 hectare estate in Ribera del Duero. Very Spanish from 100% Tempranillo.  The 2003, although very young, has rich but round creamy tannins and a lovely , well integrated roasted, spicy flavour.  Watch out for their Priorato offering soon. Although I have never tasted this wine, Miguel assures me that it is something special.

From Chile without a doubt, my favourite is Manso de Velasco.  This Cabernet Sauvignon wine has rich ripe tannins and a big mouth feel that lasts for a long time.  Very well made,  it combines New World directness with European complexity.   A snip at approx Lm 7.00 (retail).  Also from Chile Cordillera should  please those of you who like  alcoholic, spicy, rich wines.  This one is made from Carinena, Syrah and Merlot.  Finally try the very well priced, newly launched Santa Digna Syrah Reserva.  A mouthful of a wine!!!!!

From Russian River in California try the very European like Marimar Torres - Pinot Noir. Very clean, fruity and loyal to the Pinot Noir flavours of soft small red fruits.

Although here in Malta Torres is only known for it’s wines,  the company has a long history of producing top level, high quality brandies and distillates which have won many international awards. At the top of the range there is Torres 20 which is a blend of vintages, the oldest of which is more than 20 years.  Torres 10 follows the same principle whilst ‘Torres Orange Liquer’  is a liquer made from macerated oranges.  Try this mixed with ‘Cava Brut’ to create an all Spanish aperitif.

The Future

With such a huge expansion and success rate, I asked Miguel if we are likely to see Torres in France, Italy  or Australia.  He categorily rejected the idea saying that France or Australia does not need Torres to make good wine.  ‘We shall continue to work on our mission, which is to stay independent and self financed.  To be a leader in the premium wine and brandy business and to constantly look for ways of improving the quality of our products.  To clearly and professionally communicate the culture of wine to our customers and to turn each and every customer into a friend.  Finally we want to remain concerned about the well being of our staff. The advancement of society and the environment.’

With nearly 1000 employees, our Miguel is surrounded by professional and dedicated people including his daughter Mireille who looks after the vinification team and his son (another) Miguel who he calls ‘a marketing genius’.  Although by no means a small wine company the family aspect is still very much part of the Torres company, indeed I get the impression that every employee looks upon Miguel as a father.  This ensures a  certain loyalty and dedication to hard work which is reflected in the wines.

Whatever your budget  is,  and whatever your tastes are, rest assured that you will find a Torres wine exactly like you want.  Miguel will make  sure of it.

Torres wines are imported by Paolo Bonnici Ltd