Rocking Good Wines
By Michael Tabone
I don’t suppose that Rock Music and wine are a match made in heaven. but for those of us who are still rockers at heart and have now moved on to wine for our highs, the wines which were served at the classic rock festival were hardly uplifting.
I don’t know what wine it was, but I can tell you how it tasted. ‘rocking awful’ .
The red was acidic and sour. Puckering on the mouth, harsh on the tongue and burning in the stomach, which was accentuated by the fact that it was being served in large helpings at around 28 d. The white was not much better. Tasting of watered down lemon juice.
One factor that annoyed me was that the organizers had obviously given a lot of taught to the beer drinkers in the festival, with a good brand of Dutch or Belgian beer served well chilled. Actually thinking about it, we wine lovers get a raw deal over beer or other beverage drinkers most of the time. Take for example weddings, parties, feasts, or other public gatherings. Most now insist on good brands. Two or three different beers. No one would dream of not having ice to serve with whisky, lemon with vodka. Soda with Campari. We on the other hand have to put up with bad wine, served incorrectly in the wrong glass.
Anyway as I am sure you all know the beginning of May brought about the removal of levies on imported wine. Of course the onslaught of foreign wine that hit us until than is rather impressive. Practically anyone who had once tasted a glass of wine and pronounced himself a ‘master of wine’ is now importing wine with a lot of attention given to price…….. As low as possible.
To make, bottle and market good wine is not a cheap or easy task and if you work backwards you can quickly work out what kind of quality you are getting in a bottle of wine that came all the way from Australia or Chile and is now selling in Malta for 70 or 80 cents including VAT. On the other hand good and interesting wines are now much more accessible which truly mean that there is absolutely no excuse for anyone to serve bad wine, whether it is a bar, wedding or a rock concert.
In an effort to prove this point and to highlight some wines which do not cost the earth , I invited a number of wine importers to supply me with samples of interesting wines which retail for less than LM 4.00. I received about 60 samples and although some were not worth their money I have chosen the ones that in my opinion represent interest for the wine drinker and real value.
White Wines
Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca) – 2003 - CHILE (Carnaby wines) LM 3.50
Pale golden with green tinges. Fresh, lively and exotic on the nose with good refreshing acidity on the mouth. Pineapple and sweet citrus flavours dominate. Good as a quaffable summer drink or with seafood and goat cheeses.
Gran Vina Sol – Chardonnay (Torres) – 2002 SPAIN (The Bottle Vault) LM 3.55
Although titled chardonnay this has 15% Parellada which adds fruitiness and acidity. (Try a young Vina Sol which is dominated by this variety). Hints of vanilla and sweet spices on the nose highlight some oak ageing which is not overpowering. Quite aromatic with apple, melon notes on the mouth. Finish is short but nice and elegant.
Rueda (Con Class) – 2003 SPAIN (Carnaby Wines) LM 3.50
Pale straw with a delicate fruity/flowery nose. Hints of peaches. Delicate on the mouth too with very good acidity. Rueda has been producing some excellent wines of late and this is definitely one of them. Great food wine.
Gentil (Hugel) – 2002 FRANCE - ALSACE (Wands Ltd) LM 3.28
Fresh and aromatic this has got to be one of the best value whites in Alsace. Made from a blend of Alsacian varieties it has light but good typicity. Hints of flowers and light spices round off the delicate palate which makes it an ideal aperitif or party wine.
Touraine (Clos Roche Blanche) – 2003 FRANCE LOIRE (P Martinet) LM 2.95
Delicate pale yellow with green tinges. Quite complex on the nose. First impression on the mouth is of nice clean fruit which develop into much more intriguing flavours. Hints of spice, Minerals. This wine is biologically farmed and is definitely a ‘vin de terroir’.
Beaujolais Blanc (Pierre Dupond) – 2002 FRANCE (Cleyland & Suchet) LM 4.00
Light straw yellow in colour. Fresh and clean with hints of melon and apple. Touch of honey. Nicely balanced on the mouth with lively lingering acidity. Good and typical.
Oniris (Corvo) – 2003 SICILY (The Bottle Vault) LM 3.70
This is the latest new offering from the very serious Sicilian company ‘Corvo’. Made from Grillo and Inzolia grown on the windy hills of the Trapani hinterland. It has very good typicity with floral and herbal aromas. Good concentration of fruit and more herbs on the palatte backed by a refreshing amount of citrussy acidity. At 12% alcahol this is a nice easy drinking food wine.
Tifeo (Gambino ) – 2003 SICILY (Cleyland and Suchet) LM 4.00
This one is also from Sicily but from the east coast on the ETNA. 3 varieties are used. Catarrato, Carricante and Minella. These are all typical of the area and when combined with the Volcanic soils of Etna they give a wonderful mineral backbone to a floral and fruity, elegant wine. Easy drinking and excellent for fish based lunches.
Soave Tuffaie (Bolla) – 2002 ITALY (Wands Ltd) LM 3.47
Most Soave is light and forgetful but this TUFFAIE is in a class of its own. Very good concentration but retaining freshness and digestibility. Hints of almonds and honey. Try this and I guarantee you will change your opinion of Soave forever.
Lugana (Sartori) – 2002 ITALY (NM Arrigo Ltd) LM 3.02
Light golden yellow with and intense nose of cooked apples and other ripe fruit. Quite rich on the palate with balanced and refreshing acidity. Touch of almonds and caramel. Lugana along with Custoza are producing some of the most interesting whites of the Veneto. Try this.
Tokaji Furmint Mandolas (Oremus) – 2002 HUNGARY (P. Martinet) LM 3.50
Don’t mistake this with the famous sweet wines of Tokaji. This one is dry. Intense golden yellow. Oak dominates the nose. Hints of peach and cooked pear. Very fruity on the palate but quite oaky still. Good acidity and mineral tones hold the whole thing together.
Rose Wines
Cotes de Provence (Aime Roquesante) – 2002 FRANCE (Cleyland & Suchet) LM 3.20
Light Salmon/orange in colour. Delicate peachy/floral aromas. Also delicate on the mouth with hints of orange. Finish is clean and quite sweet. This one is to drink nice and chilled for lunchtime near a pool or by the sea.
Bordeaux Rose (Ch Feret Lambert) – 2003 FRANCE (The Bottle Vault) LM 3.25
Deep ‘clairet’ in colour. Wonderfull concentration of raspberries and strawberries. Good acidic backbone. Fresh and lively with a nice dry, but fruity finish. This is a serious Rose that should change the opinion of Rose skeptics. Can be drunk in relatively large quantities due to only 11.5% alcahol.
Red Wines
Morellino di Scansano (Cecchi) – 2002 ITALY (The Bottle Vault) LM 4.00
This is not the best Morellino I have ever tasted but still, it gives a hint of what this wonderful wine from the coastal area of Tuscany has to offer. Quite rich with dominating black cherry flavours. A bit rustic in style which makes it great with grilled meat and mature cheeses.
Valpolicella Bonacosta (Masi) – 2002 ITALY (The Bottle Vault) LM 3.39
This is a modern Valpolicella with a big emphasis on freshness and fruitiness. Masi is one of the top producers in the Veneto and although this is not the cheapest example on the market it is way above most Valpolicellas that you find in most restaurants in Malta. Try it with meat and tomatoe based pasta dishes.
Pinotage (Robertson Winery) – 2002 SOUTH AFRICA (S Rausi Distributors) LM 3.00
Pinotage is a variety created in South Africa in the 30s by crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsault. This one is light cherry ruby in colour . Berry aromas with a youthful style. Juicy and plummy in the mouth with an appealing bitter aftertaste.
Merlot (Robertson Winery) – 2002 SOUTH AFRICA (S Rausi Distributors) LM 3.00
Ruby garnet in colour. Typical Merlot, plummy aromas with a hint of oak and pepper. Juicy on the mouth with a velvety texture and soft tannins. Nice , sweetish easy drinking finish. Good quaffable wine, but watch out the alcahol (14%)
Carmenere (Casillero del Diablo) – 2003 CHILE (The Bottle Vault) LM 3.20
Carmenere is an old Bordeaux variety reputedly taken to Chile as merlot. Today it is making some very appealing wines. Dark and rich plum in colour. Aromas of plums, blackcurrants and dark choclate. Hints of sweet oak. Ripe berry flavours on the mouth with soft and rounded tannins. Medium bodied and warm high alcahol finish. Very easy drinking.
Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere (Montes) – 2002 CHILE (Cleyland & Suchet) LM 4.00
Medium ruby purple in colour. Full, intense, clean aromas of cassis and green pepper. Good fruit structure in the mouth with fresh , lively and ripe tannins. Typical new world. At 14%, the alcahol is well balanced and integrated. Nice long direct finish.
Rioja Crianza (Ramon Bilbao) – 1999 SPAIN (NM Arrigo Ltd) LM 3.93
Ruby red with a bouquet of ripe berries, spices and hints of Balsamic. Spicy and full on the mouth with well integrated tannins and wood. Hints of stewed fruit. Finish is nice and mature. A wine to drink now and over the next six months with richly flavoured grilled meat.
Les Combes Mezieres – Costieres de Nimes (Cave Pilote) – 2002 FRANCE (NM Arrigo Ltd) LM 3.63
Youthfull with a purple hue. Dark ripe big stone fruit and herbs dominate the nose.. The flavour is nice and easy with light tannins and an overall fruity structure. This is a nice example of easy drinking light reds from this area near the Rhone valley. Very good chilled for summer drinking.
VDP D’OC Les Grands Augustins (Tardieu-Laurent) – 2002 FRANCE RHONE (P Martinet) LM 3.35
This is made by one of the Rhone’s top stars at present. The aroma is heady ,spicy and fruity which continues in the mouth. Nice round soft nutty tannins make this a very easy drinking wine. Very good value. Can be chilled a little.
Merlot (Casablanca) – 2002 CHILE (Carnaby wines) LM 3.90
This one is stoppered with a rubber cork. So definitely no corkage problems. Nice plummy ripe flavours on the nose. Already showing maturity. Round soft tannins with a good fruit and alcahol balance (14%). Finish is light and easy drinking.
Primitivo (Sollione) – 2002 ITALY APULIA (S Rausi Distributors) LM 2.50
Rich ruby red with a purple core.. Full and intense on the nose. Hints of balsamic and ripe wild berries and plums and figs. Full bodied on the mouth with big long lasting flavours. A bit rustic to have with local rich food.
Primitivo (Danzante) – 2002 ITALY APULIA (The Bottle Vault) LM 3.50
Typical Mediterranean flavours. Figs, spices and plums. Full Bodied with a rich mouthfeel. Tannins are nutty and ripe with a nice long fruity/spicy finish.
Tempranillo (Casaterra) – 2001 ARGENTINA (Carnaby wines) LM 3.50
Tempranillo is the backbone of most great Spanish wines. In Argentina it is also doing well. This Casaterra is rich in colour and extract. Dark berry fruit on the nose with a good splash of spices. It is juicy and full on the mouth with fresh and lively acidity. Good balance and a nice long finish. Very appealing slight bitter aftertaste. Real great value.
Vipra Rossa (Bigi) – 2002 ITALY UMBRIA (Anthony Farrugia & Sons) LM 2.29
Umbria is one of the up and coming areas of Italy. This one is a blend of the typical Sangiovese and not so typical Merlot. Nice and rich on the nose with flavours of wild cherries, plums and hints of spicy oak. Round and balanced on the mouth with well integrated nutty and ripe tannins. Very appealing. Finish is long and classical. Quite elegant too. Excellent value. Try it.
Happy drinking
mike@michaeltabone.com
The Bottle Vault – Ibragg (21374694)
Wands Ltd – Qormi (21232121) www.wanddirect.com
Carnaby Wines – Attard (21421485)
Philippe Martinet Fine Wines – St Julians (9947 2208) www.martinet-finewines.com
Cleyland & Suchet – Portomaso (21389898) www.cleylandsouchet.com
NM Arrigo Ltd – Valletta (21223755)
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