Spanish Awakenings
(By Michael Tabone)
My interest in Spanish wines goes back about 18 years. I remember, as a young wine enthusiast the feeling of great excitement after tasting the first great Rioja that I understood. It was Rioja Reserva 1982 ‘La Rioja Alta- Vina Alberdi’. A great wine. Spicy, juicy and rich. A wine of discovery. A wine that spoke Spanish.
A couple of months and many Riojas later, I came across Torres and their Cabernet Sauvignon based ‘Gran Coronas - Mas La Plana - 1985’ from Penedes. An outstanding wine of great finesse and class. A wine very similar to what I knew but not exactly the same. It spoke Spanish with a French accent.
Soon after I came across a cold, fresh, bone dry Manzanilla Sherry, served cold in a copita. Very different to what I knew at Maltese weddings and baptisms!!!! Tangy and slightly salty. I remember drinking ‘Cava’ in a café/restaurant called ‘Sette Puerte’ in Barcellona. Dry and refreshing. A great aperitif and very Spanish. Add to this the great food, the lively character of most Spanish people and cities. Flamenco, Tapas, Paella, Picasso, Gaudi etc. My mind was set. Spanish wines are great.
Brief History
The history of Spanish wines is as varied and as interesting as any of the great wine nations of Europe. Phoenicians set up Cadiz (Jerez) in the South. Romans expanded and marketed the vineyards and wines. Moors allowed vineyards to flourish. The English become huge Sherry drinkers. The French brought the use of the barrique and 19th century wine practices. All these had a role to play in forging the style of wines the country produces. But by far, the most influential event in recent history, has been the joining of the Eurpean Union in 1986 and the subsequent annulment of the ban on irrigation by the same European Union in 1996.
Geography
Spain is the third largest country in Europe with 504,782 square kilometers. It is also the third most mountainous after Albania and Switzerland. There are a number of important rivers, many of which are shared with Portugal. The centre of Spain, which is called the ‘Meseta’ is basically a flat plateau but with a very high altitude. Madrid is the highest capital in Europe. It has the largest area under vine in the world but is only the third largest producer in volume. The average yield is around 25 hectolitres per hectare which is way below the 50hl in France and 80hl in Germany. There are various reasons for this. Definitely the fact that with 40 million inhabitants, Spain has never had a need for intensive cultivation is one of them but there are other factors too. The sometimes very traditional approach to winegrowing and of course the dry and arid climate in most of Spain, are contributing factors. The latter problem has now been largely relieved with drip irrigation.
Spain is divided into 16 autonomous regions which are further divided into about 50 provinces. Some are more culturally and economically more important than others but all regions have kept their traditions and sometimes language very much alive.
As can be expected there is a huge array of soils and climates. These vary from the chalky ‘Albarisa’ in Jerez and also in small parts of Ribera, granite in the north west, limestone and gravel in Ribera and clay in Rioja and Catalonia. Volcanic and Schist in Priorato. Alluvial near the rivers. Climate wise there is Maritime with relatively high rainfall on the Atlantic side. Continental on the high altitude vineyards of the eastern coast and most of the interior. Hot and dry in ‘La Mancha’ and of course Mediterranean on the eastern coast.
Grape Varieties
There are hundreds of vine varieties, including a number of International ones, especially in Penedes. But the best native variety is definitely the black ‘ Tempranillo’. The name comes from the Spanish for ‘early’ due to it’s early ripening. This is a classic variety on par with Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir etc. It can produce wines of great finesse and aromas. It is the main variety in Ribera, Rioja, Penedes, Toro, La Mancha and many other Dos. It has many Synonyms: U’ll de Liebre in Catalonia, Tinto Fino in Ribera, Tinta Roris in Portugal, Cencibel in La Mancha and many more. Other important varieties are the black ‘Garnacha’ which especially in Priorato can produce fantastic wines, ‘Mazuelo’ and ‘Graciano’.
Spain boasts the world’s most planted vine variety. This is the white ‘Airen’. Quite a statistic when one considers that this vine is practically only found in Spain. Other important whites are ‘Palomino’ for sherry production. ‘Pedro Ximenes’ for Sherry and Montilla-Morilles. ‘Macabeo’ also known as Viura, is one of the main quality whites of Spain. It is one of the base varieties for Cava and is used as a backbone for Rioja, Navarra, Penedes etc. ‘Parellada’ is another of the base varieties of Cava. High yielding but retains quality. Does best in cool, high altidude vineyards especially in Penedes.
Xarel-lo: Also used in Cava, gives aromatic wines and is the principle white in Penedes, Taragona and Costers del Segre. ‘Verdejo’ is also a high quality grape considered as one of the best in Spain. The main variety in Rueda.
The future
Although we have been anticipating the awakening of this vinous giant for many years, it is not until now that we are experiencing real and substantial progress, both in general quality and marketing. The French, who have traditionally lost business to Spain before, are very much aware of the potential of their south western neighbours, and in a way they support the idea that Spain can become Europe’s answer to the new world.
Either way, Spanish wines are on the right track and in my opinion the future promises great things for them and for us wine lovers. Whether you like classy, elegant food wines. Big, powerful, spicy reds. Rustic, country wines. Dry or sweet fortified wines. Sparkling or nice aromatic whites, Spain is the country to watch out for.
Here are some recommended wines. Most are widely available in Malta. They vary from under LM 3.00 to over Lm 100.00 per bottle.
La Rioja Alta: (Martinet Fine Wines)
In my opinion one of the best Rioja producers. This Bodega realized the benefits of moderate modern influence a while back. Try their ‘Vina Alberdi’ or ‘Ardanza’. Their Reservas 904 and 890 from 1982 have now become classics in many a wine lover’s memories.
Vega Sicila (Martinet Fine Wines)
Unfortunately this Bodega is now more famous as Spain’s most expensive wine. The truth is that their wines are absolutely great. Shame that so many bottles are drunk by people who are only interested in the fact, that it is expensive. There are 3 offerings, but not all from the same Bodega. At the very top is “Unico’. A monster of a wine with very high natural alcahol but still complex and intriguing. Very long lived, generally released from the Bodega after 10 years. Mainly made from Tempranillo but also includes Cab Sauv, Merlot and Malbec from very old vines. The other two are the also long lived ‘Valbuena’ and ‘Alion’ . Both are very good wines with some commentators preferring ‘Valbuena’ to ‘ Unico’.
Guelbenzu (Carnaby Wines)
The Guelbenzu family is not only famous for it’s Navarra wines but they are equally important in the Spanish art world. Many Guelbenzus were and are pianists, composers and painters. Although they have now expanded to other vineyards, both in Spain and Chile, their Navarra vineyard is their flagship. 3 wines are produced. The early drinking ‘Azul’ is a nice, easy, fruity red. ‘Evo’ is Cabernet influenced with firm tannins and sweet oak flavours. ‘Lautus’ is the top offering. A big, classic, powerful, long lived wine.
Abadia Retuerta (Stivala: The Bottle Vault)
Big estate in Sardon de Duero. Brought back to life in the early ninetees by one of the world’s top ‘Terroir’ orientated oenologists, Pascal Delbeck. A number of styles are produced. Try ‘Primicia 2003’ for fresh and fruity, early drinking wine. ‘Rivola 2001’ for spice and richness of flavour, but if you want to taste class, elegance and typicity, try ‘Selection Especial 1999’.
Marques de Riscal (Wands Ltd)
An historic Bodega with very good vineyards in Rioja Alavesa as well as Rueda. Try their fresh and crisp white Rueda or their Grand Reserva Rioja. Their modern style ‘Baron de Chirel’ is 50% Cab Sauv and has recently been attracting a lot of positive comments from the world’s wine score boards!!!!Very interesting Rosado too.
Torres (P. Bonnici)
This family is the wine royal family of Spain. I can safely say that without Torres, the Spanish wine industry would not be as it is today. Very big land holders in Catalonia (3500 hectares) but also very big in quality. Try their classic , cabernet sauvignon based “Mas La Plana” or their ‘Gran Muralles’ based on traditional Spanish Varieties. Equally interesting, but less expensive is ‘Mas Borras’ from Pinot Noir . Makers of one of the world’s most successful brands ‘Sangre de Toro’, now in it’s 50th year.
Gonzales Y Byass (P. Cutajar)
A Bodega established in the mid 19th century. Although they produce a large range of sherrys as well as Rioja, I suppose that they are most famous for the world’s biggest seller of Fino, ‘Tio Pepe’. When Tio Pepe is fresh, meaning bottled recently, served cold in a ‘copita’ it is one of the best aperitif and a great food wine to have with spicy dishes or Tapas. It is a true shame that in Malta we don’t know how to serve it or appreciate it.
Other reputable wines to look for: From Rioja try, ‘Bodegas Muga’, ‘Marques de Cacares’ ,’Ramon Bilbao’, and ‘Bodegas Serres’. Try ‘Pesquera’ and ‘Pingus’ from Ribera del Duero. From Priorato, ‘Bodegas Alvaro Palacios’, makers of the hugely expensive ‘Ermita’. Also from the same area, ‘Scala Dei’ and ‘Clos Magador’. From Alicante in the south there is a very reliable co op ‘Bocopa’ and from Jerez look out for ‘Lustau’ and ‘Domecq’
(Note: Due to the political and historic connections between Spain and the USA, barriques , are generally made from American oak although the use of French oak is increasing.)
Happy drinking
mike@michaeltabone.com
|
|
